Our Wines & Spirits

William Kelley: The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2008)derives from a different stylistic era in the history of ChampagneUlysse Collin. In 2008, Olivier wanted to push the boundaries: thiswine was fermented in wood, some 40% of which was new, and the vinsclairs weren't topped up, developing a touch of "voile" whichimparted some subtly biologically aged qualities to the cuv嶪.Dosage was lower, too: only 0.85 grams per liter compared to the2.4 grams that the last few releases of Les Roises have seen. Thiswas the first time I had tasted the 2008 Roises in five years, andthe wine is still showing very well, revealing aromas of citrusoil, walnuts, orchard fruits, mandarin and fenugreek, with hints ofclear honey and dried fruits emerging as it sits in the glass. Onthe palate, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with theracy acids typical of the vintage cloaked and underpinning itsbroad-shouldered, powerful frame. Of all the vintages Collin hasproduced, 2008 is, in a number of respects, the on that mostclosely approximates to the style of Anselme Selosse. Already with2009, his approach began to evolve in a different direction, butthis wine is an important part of his curriculum vitae nonetheless.